I am about to embark on an adventure away from America's shores. For the next year I will be living and studying in Japan, attending Chuo University. I will update this blog with loads of pictures from my travels and some tales of the trouble I get into along the way. Enjoy!

Sunday, June 6

Takahatafudo's Temple and Religion in Japan

Religion in Japan is incredibly interesting.  Unlike most of the religion practiced in the West, religion in Japan is extremely accepting.  People are not typically pushy about their religion, no one really tries to change your mind about whatever you believe.  People will not just approach you and ask, and if they do, it seems that many Japanese will try to figure out the answer that will most please the asker.  My Japanese Culture professor said of religion in Japan that, "80% of Japanese are Shinto, 70% are Buddhist, 30% are Atheists, and 40% are Unaffiliated."

The temple in Takahatafudo reflects the broad minded approach that the Japanese take to religion.  For instance Shinto shrines do not have pagodas, and Buddhist temples do not have tori.  Also, Japanese graves borrow from many of Hindu burial rituals.  Toris, pagodas, Hindu statues, and statues of the Buddha are all present in Takahatafudo.  This illustrates the compelling differences between religion as practiced in the West as in the East.  Following are some pictures, and some captions when I can be bothered.

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Here we are.

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These are prayers that have been put up.  Most are wishes for success in business or school.

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This pagoda is very tall, you can see it from most of Takahatafudo.

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This is a small water wheel that makes a very quiet chimes and bells sound.  Very peaceful.

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This is the footprint of the Buddha.  He had big ole' feet.

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This is a family grave.  Most Japanese are cremated and the deceased are entombed together in one lot.

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Sunday, May 23

Transcendentaltastic

The other day I took an amazing stroll on some of the trails that weave through the woods on the mountain behind campus.  It was incredible.  One of the first things that I noticed about Japan when I first arrived was how stunningly different the flora and fauna are from what I am accustomed to in the States. This has really started to make itself drastically evident now that it is a bit later in the year and Spring is busy springing.

I set out by myself with no real agenda, ad I'm super glad I did.  I didn't even know until I did it that I was going to end up hiking on this mountain.  I wandered about this park, it's called Sakura (Japanese for blossoms) Plaza, before I found the path that would take me up the mountain.  Japanese woods are a far cry from TN woods.  The forest floor is much less tangled and thick in general, which makes for an easier go of it in places, but it can quickly turn into an impassable bamboo/reed thicket.  Also, Japanese trees tend to naturally be quite a bit more gnarled and twisted. 


A good friend of mine and I were talking early on in our stay here and he made the comment that Japanese nature is especially interesting because it feels like nature without the annoying bits.  Like it is Nature by Japan.  That observation is very accurate.  It seems quite rare to see any trees in a park that either do not have some kind of bamboo framework, either making it grow straighter or fanning out individual limbs, or do not bear some kind of indication growth control from humans.  Seeing some natural trees was especially nice during my little hike.

Even so, I quickly got a bit bored with walking on the path that had been laid out for me by the Chuo landscapers so I picked an opportune spot and veered off.  It is getting into the beginning of the rainy season here in Japan and it had rained the other day, making it somewhat treacherous to be scrambling around on the side of a mountain, but it was an absolute joy to be in some nature again.  After quite a while scurrying about, I started to set back, determined to take a different path than the one I had taken in.  On the way back, I saw a shock of red ahead of me.

In Japan, at the entrances to temples, shrines, and other holy sites there is usually an arch that symbolizes the passage from the profane world into the sacred.  These are called torii in Japanese.  Many are painted red, and as I suspected this was what I had glimpsed through the trees.  However, there wasn't just one as I discovered when I drew nearer.  Maybe 15 or 20 torii adorned the path to the summit of the mountain.  Some were quite dilapidated and some seemed to be in much better repair.  I was absolutely taken with these and had to take many pictures, stopping for a moment to email some of them to my lovely lady.






















After I pressed on I found a small shrine, maybe 6'*4', filled with small offerings.  Most temples and even most small shrines like the one I had just discovered have a box or small tray set just inside to put in offerings.  There is always money in these just sitting out, unwatched, unmanned, and attended only very rarely by a priest who will take the collections to the temple. 



My journey concluded, I made my way back to the campus.  In Sakura Plaza rests the original door for the original Chuo University, a law school started in 1885.  This door was moved from it's original location to it's current home on the new Chuo campus.  It's huge and cool, I'll let the pics speak for themselves.

 

It was a marvelous little hike, I came back sweaty and dirty and thoroughly happy and relaxed.

Friday, May 7

Golden Week!

Golden Week in Japan is a big deal.  It lasts from April 29th through May 5th and includes three national holidays: Showa Day, Greenery Day, and accumulates into Children's Day.  This is probably the biggest (certainly the longest) holiday in Japan, perhaps rivaled by Japanese New Years.  Many Japanese take paid time off from work for the entire week, many companies just close completely to allow their employees time to travel and spend time with their kids.

For Golden Week the school gave us a few days off and we did our best to capitalize on it.  Friday night we did karaoke (quickly becoming my favorite nighttime activity in Japan, I will post about it exclusively later).  We never seem to be able to tear ourselves away from karaoke until 3am, so we usually have to walk back (more on transportation difficulties later), and that Fri. night was no exception.  I made it back home in the morning and spent most of my day Sat. sleeping.  Good thing I went home, one of my friends got in a bit of trouble for partying a bit too hard.

On Sunday, I was able to do something a bit more cultural.  My British friend, Tom and one of our Japanese friends, Yuko, went to a Shinto temple in Takahatafudo.  It was marvelous!  Everything was very pious, very solemn, and uniquely Japanese.  One of my favorite parts of that day was taking a long stroll on this nature trail running off into the woods from the temple.  It was a bit of a hike because the path was rock and dirt and almost vertical.






On Tuesday Pat, Taylor, and I took the train to Mt. Takao, the tallest mountain in our area.  Getting there was a bit of an adventure because we got off on the wrong stop, but we finally got there.  It was incredibly crowded because of the Golden Week festivities but absolutely beautiful.




Finally on Wednesday me and some of he guys went out to Tama Center (it's huge) for the big Children's Day festival.  There were a gajillion people there and way more interesting food than could possibly be sampled.  Tom had some whole fish on a stick, I ate some octopus balls, and we all pigged out and walked around.



Golden Week was amazing, I had more of a culture injection in this one week span than ever before.  It was fun to see the Japanese let their hair down a bit and have some fun.

Wednesday, April 21

Just a Few Early Pics

Little Tiny Planes, Big Blue Skies, and Touchdown


 

(This is an incredibly long post, but what do you want? I went to Japan.)


 

Well, these last couple of weeks have not exactly been idle. After the incredible birthday evening my two great friends gave me for my 21st, I wrapped up my job of four-ish years at the Aquarium Restaurant in Nashville. After that, I set off on the following Thursday for Johnson City for one final hoorah.


 

I was able to see my amazing Haley for quite a bit of the time and said さようなら (goodbye) to some of my closest friends. My beautiful lady and I went to Jonesborough, TN on the most glorious day of the year thus far and took bunches of pics.




 

After an incredibly difficult farewell to my incredible girlfriend, I made the long, lonely drive back to Springfield. The very evening I got back from the JC, I began the jarring process of packing up my life into two bags to last for most of a year. While the stress was absolutely compounded by my procrastination, this day long event absolutely was the starting gun for all of the continuously mounting angst that would be my first day in Japan.


 

After some hugs from grandparents and even more from the plain parents, it was time for a few winks before waking up at 4 to pack those last few things. On this, the eve of my departure from everything I've ever known, I found myself incapable of sleep. Packing in a rush had made me second guess that I had actually packed any one item, or had merely dreamed it. I slept for maybe two hours before…


Our first plane was much smaller than I had envisioned. It was mostly full of tired looking businessmen drinking the Starbucks that they'd brought on board and doing crossword puzzles. This being an early morning jump up to Chicago, it was no more than an early commute to the Windy City for them. For me and Taylor, it was more than that. The plane took off, Nashville dropping away quickly. As I looked down at the city for the last time for a great while, I saw all of these cars going about their business: driving to work, taking kids to school, etc. This moment for me was such an important one and for them it was as mundane as the next. Everyone is the main character of their own story, and I found myself thinking that those people should realize what a huge day this was for this character.


 

After what seemed like an impossibly short flight, I think nerves had something to do with that, we arrived at Chicago O'Hare International. Getting from where we were to where we needed to be was fun. We asked a security officer where we should go and he pointed us to Terminal 5, where all of the International lines are. All of them except for ANA (All Nippon Air) which is what we were flying. After we travelled all the way to the other side of the massive airport, we were sent right back to where we had started. Fortunately, O'Hare has a great public transport system. When we got the ANA desk, a super friendly ticket agent helped get us seats side by side and told us exactly what to do next. After we ran the security gauntlet one last time, we were ready to board our big plane for the flight to Japan's Narita airport.


 

ANA's 777 is huge. Quite impressive. When we first boarded, I was very excited because everything was so very nice, clean and quiet. Unfortunately we had to pass through both first and second classes before we got to our economy seats, so we knew what we were missing out on. Economy class turned out to be quite better than I had expected. Blankets, pillows and headphone for the plethora of in-flight movies were already there and waiting for your convenience. Every seat had a small screen in front of it controlled by a remote tucked into the armrest. There were many entertainment options for the flight using this device. Everything from Hollywood movies (they already had Avatar!) to Japanese TV shows to video games (including multiplayer Pong) were at our disposal for free. Even had you neglected to bring anything to entertain yourself on the flight, this device would've had you covered. They served us two full meals as well as the snacks and beverages that were continuously available. Everything was complimentary from the rice crackers to the beer and little bottles of wine. I couldn't believe how delicious the food was. My first meal was eel and rice with veggies. It was served with some cold udon and another container with a small slice of pork, some salmon and potato salad. The eel I had on the plane was easily better than any eel I'd ever had in the States.



The flight was incredibly long, but really didn't feel too bad. The main problem I had was my damn height. I had an aisle seat (thanks Taylor!) so my right side was ok, just my left was curled up and falling asleep most of the time. After the first meal, they turned off the cabin lights and asked everyone to shut their windows so that the people who had actually prepared for this journey and put themselves in a position where they could sleep would be able to do so. Even though I had only slept a couple of hours the previous day, I was woefully unable to sleep for the most part. My gears were turning too much. I probably slept for an hour all told, broken up. I finished the book I've been reading (a brain vacation, World War Z by Max Brooks about the zombie apocalypse; really very good) and watched Million Dollar Baby. Quite a peaceful flight. We were on a Japanese airline and one thing that I've already noticed is how much more peaceful travelling is in Japan compared to America. All of the public transport I've been on has been completely quiet, almost serene.


 

Arriving in Japan was a surreal experience. Only being able to peek across the aisle and three more seats out the nearest window, my first glimpse was brief but exhilarating. After landing and finally being able to disembark we made our way through Japanese customs and out to baggage claim. On the way we met another guy, Pat, who was going to Chuo as well. We all kinda stuck together and were able to find the meeting desk. Our professional "meeter" took us over to a baggage delivery desk to have our bags sent to our apartments (at this point we hadn't seen where we'd be living) and told us which bus ticket to buy to get us to Tachikawa, the area I am now residing in. When I got on the bus, I was happy to see the other two from ETSU; I was not happy to see the seat that I was going to have to slide into to sit with my group. A younger Japanese man was fully reclined into it and made no move to sit up as I painfully slid myself into the impossibly tiny crack that was my seat. Very uncomfortable, very awkward. That was, until an older Japanese businessman to my direct right told him to sit up. I can't remember if I said ありがと as I had intended, I probably muttered it inaudibly, not out of disrespect but intimidation. Japanese is an incredibly intimidating language, especially when you haven't even been in a classroom for five months. Anyways, he was very nice going out of his way to help a gaijin like me and I appreciated it. At this point, Taylor and I had been travelling for almost twenty hours and were completely exhausted.


 

When we finally got off the bus after an hour and a half or so (I actually managed to sleep for a bit!) we were met by a couple of Chuo students to take us to our apartments. This was my first harsh wakeup call. I know so much less Japanese than I should. They were both very nice, only one spoke a bit of English. Introductions were pretty broken and awkward, but we were all doing our best. We got on one last bus, this time for only ten minutes, and this was the first time my "foreign-ness" was obvious. I was in the back of the bus, Taylor was sitting one in front of me, we both had empty seats beside us. Mistake. The bus filled more than we had apparently thought it would and a woman with two small children approached. The situation somehow was that one or both of the kids was going to have to sit next to me. They were not having it. The little boy had a look of sheer terror at the prospect and the little girl buried her face into her mother's side. After an extremely uncomfortable minute, Taylor sat beside me and let them all take her seat. The boy gave a very cute "arigato gozaimasu" and sat down.


After a very short bus ride through Tachikawa (which is beautiful, I'll post about it later) we came to our stop, walked down an alley, and arrived at "Friends Tachikawa Apartments". I was immediately impressed with the newness of the building and the general vibe of the area. When our guides let us into our room, I was really floored. I had been thinking the worst. It was actually very nice with a bigger (or at least comparable) living space to myself than I've ever had. Of course the first thing I do is one of the biggest no-no's you can do. Stupidly I just strolled in without taking off my shoes… doh!


 

After everyone was shown into their rooms and we had regrouped, we set off for Tachikawa-Kita, the area with our train station as well as a huge department store, to get something to eat. At this point things seemed to take a slight downward turn. Our guides literally took an hour or two deciding where we should eat. After twenty plus hours of travelling I was ready to grab a McDonald's burger and go to bed, but no. We had to eat somewhere Japanese. And not just anywhere Japanese, because that would've been too easy, but somewhere expensive Japanese. We ended up in a restaurant called Chibo. It was quite delicious, I just had what our male guide was having and aped his every move. Literally like, "Oh, the noodles go in that after you put sauce in that; and when you're done you say this to make it soup."


 

Finally we were free to get some sleep. The making of the futon was, and is, still rocket science to me. I stuffed my comforter into my main mattress combo and then spent the next 30 minutes stuffing it into the Japanese version of a fitted sheet. After an Olympian struggle I was able to lay my tired head down for some sleep, and that ended my first day in Japan.


 


 

Thursday, March 18

The Big 2-1

Well I turned 21 today and so far it is just oh so good.  There is something fine about sipping on a Japanese brew whilst eating some Japanese cuisine, enjoying the oddly beautiful weather.  Today I had lunch with my friend Alex and while we were enjoying the porch area of the restaurant a wasp decided to fly over and harass us.  He continued to be a true source of uneasiness for quite some time until we decided it was either his continued insect existence or our pleasant afternoon.  Naturally we decided the bug had to die.  Just as I had procured a weapon with which to vanquish this nuisance, the wasp made the fatal mistake of crawling under my beer glass that I had raised to prevent spilling in the incidence of a sudden strike.  That wasp was squashed between a napkin and the bottom of my amber chalice. 

In whole, it was a strikingly surreal experience.  I felt that maybe I had fulfilled some obscure and ancient prophecy.  Something like: "And then the chosen, on the second and first, would while enjoying the fruits of his age, strike with the fruits down, a great and evil force, and all around shall rejoice."  Later on, after I've completed my destiny as the chosen one, historians will look back and be all, "Oh, yeah, wow.  That finally makes sense!"

You're welcome, future me-storians.  You are welcome.